Ceylon, name and place have held a fascination for me since primary school days, so that the opportunity to visit modem day Sri Lanka was not to be missed. We were supposed to make this journey last year, but were unable to because of the Tsunami which meant that this year's visit was to be even more special.
It is a land of precious stones, seas rich in fish, cool highlands which produce wonderful tea and a Colonial past which still shows in many ways. The people we met were kind, smiling and always ready to help. Literacy rates are high with most people speaking English plus at least one other language.
The area in which we were to stay was a three hour journey south of Colombo. It was hot and uncomfortable as we travelled the poorly surfaced coast road through many small towns almost completely congested with traffic of all kinds including tuktuks cows and goats. Although this ride took us through a part of the Island, which had not been too badly affected by the Tsunami, we were aware of quite a lot of wrecked homes and fishing boats along the beach with temporary huts nearby. White streamers still hung across roads in many small towns as a sign of mourning.
With the help of the ever ready Tuktuk drivers we visited many local areas during our stay including temples, markets, gardens, a turtle farm and a wide river teeming with birds monkeys and exotic trees and flowers. We landed on a tiny island inhabited by one family and were shown how they made a living by making coconut matting and cinnamon sticks. Everywhere we went people were anxious to thank us for the help given to them last year by the U.K.
Close to where we were staying runs the railway, which follows the coast from Colombo to Galle in the south. It was here that one of the most tragic events of the Tsunami took place. At Peraliya the train "Queen of the Sea" was tipped over by the wave. There were 1700 people killed either by being washed out to sea or being trapped in the wreckage It took a week to untangle what was, left of the train. The fishing industry is also in disarray in this village with a hundred families displaced. Many people are still living in tents and feel that the process of rebuilding is too slow. Slowly they are trying to move out of the camps but need basics such as pot, pans and drinking water.
The saddest place, which we visited, was the Turtle Conservation Centre at Kosgoda where the tanks housing the baby turtles were all destroyed. Chasandri I think was the name of the fellow who showed us what was left of the centre and explained how the turtles lay eggs in the sand and the day old babies are returned to the sea at sunset each day. I lc %\-as able to run from the wave with two rare turtles in his arms and also managed to save a woman's life. Although there have been many volunteers to help the work of restoration in both the hatchery and nearby fishing village. it will be many months until things really Improve. Turtles 11-C again coming ashore to lay their c-,s and the people are able to earn a small amount Of money by collecting them and selling them to the hatchery. I believe that aid workers in Sri Lanka are still feeding one million people.
Next year we hope to return to see More of this beautiful island and its gentle smiling, people.
Pat Sparke
February 2006